Hobie Tiger Mods

Here is my list of planned modifications after the first sail. I have been also checking out the other Tiger's in the area to see what works.
I'll update this later with pictures.

1. Trapeze doublers under the tramp
After the capsizes this weekend and having to retie and untangle broken bungee's this seemed like a pretty good idea. Also adding a small lead to a block to allow the bungee to run better.
Part List:
H406 qty 2 Double 16mm air Does this come with a shackle? If not 2 H245 stamped shackle.
H404 qty 4 single 16mm air
H424 qty 1 red 1 green (to tie blocks out to)
Excel Racing 1/16" Blue 20 feet (to tie blocks to leads and some extra)
32 foot bungee
Cost:~$100
Complete
Was very easy and highly recommended. Hardest part was using a drill on a brand new boat. But came out good with some self tapping screws and 5200

2. Jib return and under tramp
Thanks to Rick Harper for this idea. The Jib sheet isn't used as much with the very small jib and self tacker. So this moves it under the tramp and gets it out of the way.
The sheet runs from the cam on the crossbar, under the tramp near the rear, to a fixed block at the rear beam, to a block at the front beam (attached to bungee that turns at the beam and goes to rear beam), back to another fixed block on the other side of the rear beam, and to the other cleat.
Price:
H442 qty 1 16mm single for bungee
rivets #8 I think
H351 qty 3 29mm carbo tri lite
10 foot bungee
Cost:~$55
Complete
Really makes a difference for a clean tramp.

3. 2nd Carbo Rachamatics for spin
In heavy air with both crew and skipper at the rear beam the carbo near the shroud gets half a wrap, at best. This adds a second carbo rachamatic at the front beam and then the tail goes through a block at the rear of the tramp. the block is on a bungee that goes through a grommet and rear beam to front beam. Keeping the slack out of the way.
Part List:
H442 qty 1 16mm single for bungee
Have the 2 carbo rachamatics all ready
Eyestraps and rivets for rachamatics
10 foot bungee
Grommet Kit
Cost: ~$30 + 2 carbo Rachimatics (~$100)
Complete
Was my first time using a Grommet kit. Make sure you read the directions. I practiced off the tramp but took three times before I was comfortable enough to put one in the tramp.

4. Jib downhaul (all blocks 16mm airblocks)
This allows the jib halyard to be adjusted from the tramp
Part List:
1 cheek Micro (does H423 or H416 work better) and fastener
H417 to attach to pole
H404 for end of line
H442 qty 2 for beam (16mm stand up)
H416 qty 2 to turn line up at beam
H242 1 red 1 green
H423 qty 2 carbo cam cleat
rivets for cheek and stand up blocks
Cost:~$110

5. Jib traveler cleat
Had thought about changing this but think I'm just going to keep it as is and downsize the line.
Part List:
H281
H423 carbo cam cleat
Cost: ~$20 (just downsizing the line now)
Complete
Just downsized the line.

6. Furler line relocation
I used the center cleat for the jib traveler limiter. So need to move the furler line out somewhere else.
Will use the 2 grommets all ready at the edges of the tramp to run under the front crossbar
Part List:
H242 Red
H423 carbo cam cleat
Cost:~$20

7. Stainless clip to allow the jib to furl
With the self tacker installed you can't fully furl the jib without untying the line to the block on the tacker. This just uses a stainless clip there instead of a knot.
Part List:
One stainless clip
Cost:~$14
Still can't find the right sized clip. May add a block with a becket so it can be clipped to easier.

8. Lower main sheet angle
Lower the angle of the cleat at least on hole. You have to work it in changing conditions, but where it is set stock can not be cleated from the wire at all.
Move it down one or two holes
Part List:
None
Cost:
None
Complete

9. Snap Shackle for top block
Makes it much easier to hook and unhook the webbing bail without loosing a pin
Part List:
Snap Shackle
Cost: ~$30
Complete

10. Main Traveler angle
The traveler cleat is about impossible to uncleat from the wire.
Bend it down slightly to make it easier to uncleat.
Part List:
None
Cost:
None
Complete

11. Chicken Lines (for distance racing)
A line tied to the rudder pin. Up to a small airblock at the bridal mount (there is a hole there not in use). Some slack with the double eye stopper used on the trap to adjust. A bungee to the front beam to take up the slack.
Very small line tied in loops with a climbing ascent knot along the line. Then a small line with a stopper ball attached to the spreader bars on our harnesses. Then when needed just pop the loop over the ball.
Part List:
40 feet of line used Marlow Marstron (1/4" 6mm)
10 feet of bungee
H404 qty 2 for the bridal
Have small line
Have stopper balls
Have trapeze stops
Cost:

12. Spinnaker tweakers
The spinnaker seems to be a lot less volatile when pushing down the line some. So these will attach to the cross bar to lead the sheeting angle slightly forward. There is a eyestrap for the tramp I can tie too.
2 Holt Allen Snatch Blocks I ordered the 40mm and they seem too big. I think I'm going to exchange them for the smaller set. I was worried about them running freely if I upsize the sheet.
3 or 4 feet of line
Cost:~$60

13. Spinnaker luff tensioner
Supposedly this will increase the life of the sail. This is rigged to "catch" the luff when the nylon stretches and keep it from wearing excessively.
I used Marlow Excel D12 (7/64" or 2.5mm) Tensile Strength 1,345lbs
I wonder if this is a little big. I have also seen Marlow Excel Vectran (1/16" or 1.2mm) Tensile Strength 206lbs used.
To rigged this I used a very small splicing fid taped to some utility string and then tied the string off to the rope and pulled it through. The fid made the job much easier pushing it up the pocket.
Cost:~$10
Complete

14. Polish
Protects the gelcoat from UV, makes the boat easier to clean, and helps with water flow.
Starbrite Teflon Polish
This is also a good time to sand out gel coat inperfections.
Cost:~$12 and lots of elbow grease.
Complete

Other ideas
Larger diameter Spin Sheet and Halyard
Tapered Main Sheet